Binoculars are an unmatched tool for better connecting with the outdoors, letting you enjoy elusive wildlife without disturbing it, getting a look at the trail ahead, or getting a closer look at birds, butterflies, and other flying animals. Since birdwatching was my entry into more serious natural history, binoculars were what really started my naturalist journey. They opened up a whole dimension of the outdoors to me, in which I could enjoy the vibrant colors of native birds up close and watch their behaviors in detail. That experience hooked me on natural history, from keeping lists of species that I came across to adding extra hikes and outings to any travel I engaged in just to meet new bird species. Before I knew it, I was just as excited about bugs, bats, mushrooms, wildflowers… the list goes on!
Read More: A Naturalists’ Guide on How to Use Binoculars
As a result, I’m convinced that every naturalist should have a good pair of binoculars at hand. They’re an essential item for a nature-lover’s “go-bag” and come in handy all the time. For this addition to my blog series on Beginner Naturalist Tips, I’ll share my advice and experience for what to look for in a pair of binoculars.
Getting started with a pair of binoculars can be daunting. There are loads of different options and a massive price range, and it’s hard to know where to start. This post will give you the tools you need to choose a pair of binoculars that fits your needs. Specifically, I connect types of binoculars to the activities for which they work best, whether you’re going on safari on watching your birdfeeder.
Read More: 11 Essential Items for Your Naturalist Go-Bag
Let’s get into some basic tips to help you get started:
1. Start with the Optics (magnification, field of view).
One of the most intimidating things about buying a pair of binoculars is the mysterious pair of numbers in their name. Just a quick look around a typical website brings up 8×42, 12×50, 8×25, and many more. What exactly do all those numbers mean, and how they help you choose the pair that’s right for you? The numbers refer to specific aspects of the binoculars’ optics, that is, the type of view it can provide for you. Since this is the central reason you’re probably looking for binoculars (unless you’re going for a really nerdy fashion statement), those mysterious optics numbers are a great place to start.
Magnification
The first of those two numbers is the magnification. In other words, how many times bigger or closer an object appears when you look at it. The higher the number, the higher the magnification and the closer (or larger) an object will appear. If the magnification is 12x, then the object will appear 12-times closer. Thus, higher magnification means you can see stuff from further away. This gets you a more detailed view of your object of interest, and with higher-quality binoculars the views can be really spectacular.
But more magnification isn’t always better. If an object is really close to you, or moving around a lot, or if you’re not very experienced with using binoculars, more magnification might make them very hard to use. Since they zoom you in so far, higher magnification binoculars can be disorienting and require more experience to use effectively. A more “zoomed in” view canmake it harder to find things that were easy to see with your naked eye, and I have seen people get “lost” trying to find something they can plainly make out when they put their binoculars down. That closer look can be elusive if you’re not good at lining up on your target, and if you’re watching wildlife you might not have time to fumble around! Check out my guide on how to use binoculars to avoid this problem.
Higher magnification also requires steadier hands, since the more you zoom in, the more difference any small movement makes. Ultimately, any twitch or tremble can make a lot of movement in your field of view at higher magnification. If you’re likely to be moving around a lot, or can be a little shaky, lower magnitude binoculars may be better.
I typically recommend that beginner naturalists and birdwatchers start with an 8x magnification pair of binoculars. This gets you a plenty closer view while also being forgiving if you’re not particular good at lining up your binoculars. They are also great for highly mobile animals like warblers that are difficult to keep in your field of view. It’s harder to get “lost” with a pair of 8x binoculars (slick birders often call them “eights”) and they’re a solid bet if you think you’ll be watching anything within a couple hundred yards (or meters). More experienced binoculars users might go for higher magnifications like 10x or 12x depending on what they’re looking for, since steady hands and good hand-eye coordination might not be an issue. In my experience, getting above 10x magnification is a bit less useful for birdwatching since most birds are very mobile and can often be approached closely enough to not need anything more powerful.
For shorebirds, waterbirds like ducks, and other birds that occupy large, open, or hard-to-access terrain like wetlands, birdwatchers typically bring out the big guns and go for spotting scopes (i.e., telescopes) instead, so a pair of “eights” and “tens” are typically plenty for bird purposes. I have seen other wildlife watchers, like hunters or safari goers, use larger and higher magnification binoculars to keep an eye on larger land-bound animals that might be easier to keep in sight at a greater distance .
Size or Diameter
The second number in common binocular specifications is the size or diameter, which is measured in millimeters. It represents the diameter of the objective lens, which is the business end of the binoculars that concentrates light to provide an enlarged image. The diameter of the objective lens determines how big of a field of light the binoculars take in, in other words, how much visible light is getting concentrated to provide you with a closer look. Combined with the magnification (above), the binocular size determines the field of view. By taking in more light, binoculars with higher magnifications and bigger diameters can also provide a brighter and more vivid image in low-light environments. This can lead to a cool “night vision” effect: I remember being completely blown away when an ornithology mentor of mine lent me a pair of his much more expensive binoculars in Florida to get a look at a great horned owl in dusk. While it looked like a silhouette in my binoculars, I could see its eyes and plumage clearly with my mentor’s pair. It was my first good look at a Great-horned owl and I’ll never forget it!
Field of View
Simply put, the field of view is the amount of space visible when you look through the binoculars, the “window” you’re working with when you look through them. A larger diameter objective lens means you can see a larger space, and are casting a wider visual “net” to capture whatever it is you’re interested in. This means that if the thing you want to see is moving all around, you could have an easier time seeing it even if you’re not particularly adept with binoculars. However, there is a tradeoff between magnification and field of view: higher magnifications (effectively zooming in more) mean you have a smaller field of view, or need a larger diameter size to maintain the same field of view. Although this makes intuitive sense, you can test it out with a phone camera. When you zoom in on an object, you see less of the surrounding area. If you want to have a decent field of view with a lot of magnification, you’ll need a bigger diameter objective lens, which ultimately means a bigger pair of binoculars. If you’re going to be mobile or on your feet using these, a bulky pair of binoculars will quickly become burdensome. Definitely worth considering before you pick up a pair!
2. Think about design type.
Have you ever noticed how binoculars come in some seriously different shapes and sizes? What makes them look so different? The biggest thing I noticed when shopping for my first pair was the alignment of the eyepieces (the part you look through) and the main lenses (the ones you look out of). In some binoculars, the eyepieces are directly in line with the main lenses, making for a fairly compact design. Meanwhile, other binoculars have the main lenses set wider than the eyepieces. These dramatically different shapes have to do with the arrangement of the prisms that make them function.
The former, more compact example use what are called roof prisms, and the bigger ones use Porro prisms. Ultimately, this just describes how they reflect and change the light that passes through them. Generally speaking, Porro prism binoculars have a better image. On the other hand, they are bulkier and take up more space, and can weigh more. Achieving the same quality of image as a Porro prism with a roof prism pair of binoculars is often more expensive, and those more compact, sleeker (I think stylish!) roof prism binoculars are often a bit steeper in price.
I generally recommend roof prism binoculars for anyone who will be using them most of the time on foot, and Porro prism binoculars for folks that will be birdwatching from a vehicle or from their home. If you’re just looking for a pair of binoculars to keep handy in case something new comes to your birdfeeder or shows up in your backyard, a less expensive pair of porros will be just fine.
3. Check out the warranty.
It’s also a good idea to pay careful attention to the warranty on a pair of binoculars. This is especially true if you buy a more expensive or sophisticated pair. Additionally, you’ll want a good warranty if your binoculars will be coming on more strenuous adventures where the risk of damage is greater.
4. Pick the binoculars that fit your outdoor activities.
Binoculars come in handy for all kinds of outdoor adventures. However, which binoculars work best for you will depend on how, and where, you want to use them. For example, binoculars with a very narrow field of view may be difficult for beginning birdwatchers to use. On the other hand, they might be great for stargazing, where your target doesn’t move around.
Keep scrolling for info on what types of binoculars work best for common outdoor activities. But if you’re looking to cut to the chase, here’s my overall top pick based on personal experience and reviews from friends and colleagues:
Gulo’s Pick: My Overall No.1 Recommendation [Updated 2026]
Osprey Vortex Diamondback HD 8×42 Binoculars
A well-designed, solid, reliable pair of binoculars with good optics at a reasonable price. I have used these for my own field research as a professional biologist and found them excellent. They don’t have quite the image quality of high-end binoculars, but cost a fraction of the price. They are also more durable, with fewer glued-on pieces, than other binoculars I’ve owned, which is a major plus for wear and tear.
- Fully multi-coated lenses for better light transmission, anti-reflective coating on air-to-glass surfaces.
- Solid rubber armor
- Tripod compatible
- Fogproof – argon purging and o-ring seals built in
- Excellent (unlimited, unconditional) warranty
Things to Consider: Binoculars for Birdwatchers
Birdwatching requires a lot of versatility in your binoculars. Some days, you might find yourself in dense forest, and others in an open park. People will go on long treks for birdwatching, while many others just watch birds in our backyards. Consequently, binoculars are most appropriate for birdwatching will depend on the type of birdwatching.
For backyard or birdfeeder birdwatching, birds will probably be pretty close at hand. Since you’re covering a smaller amount of area, you don’t need a huge field of view. Backyard birding is also less likely to involve long hours of walking, so the weight of your binoculars might not be a big deal.
If you’re on a budget, heavier but less expensive binoculars using Porro prisms are probably a great way to go for this type of birding. They’re less expensive but their greater weight doesn’t matter. You can also get away with lower magnification and smaller lens size, since the birds will be relatively close. I would recommend 8x, or at most 10x, magnification for backyard use.
Weight is more of an issue for more active birdwatchers. This is especially true where when birdwatching involves long hours of walking or driving. Although most birdwatchers typically stick to an 8x or 10x magnification, they will look for a larger diameter lens.
Additionally, since you don’t want heavy binoculars weighing you down all day, people look for lighter options. 10×42 or 8×42 roof prism binoculars are the most typical ones I see out in the field. They are a bit more pricey, but lighter weight, compact, and have just enough magnification to be helpful and versatile.
Things to Consider: Binoculars for Backpackers & Hikers
Minimizing weight is the biggest concern for backpackers. The further you’re going, the more important this becomes. Every additional ounce can be a concern when you’re going tens, hundreds, or even thousands of miles. As a result, smaller, more compact, and lighter binoculars are by far the best choice for backpackers and hikers.
Even with a relatively compact 8×42 pair that I use for birdwatching, I feel weighed down after more than 5 or 6 miles. The best way to reduce size and weight is to look for roof prism binoculars with smaller diameter lenses.
If you’re planning a long ridgeline hike in an area with few trees like the American rockies, the Alps, or the Andes, a higher magnification might be useful. With a 10x or 12x magnification, you will be able to admire wildlife at the greater distances at which you may be seeing them. By contrast, if you’ll be walking in heavily forested areas like the Appalachian trail, a lower magnification like 8x might be a better idea.
Things to Consider: Binoculars for Safaris & Whale watches
The size or heft of your binoculars may be less of an issue when you’re in a vehicle and not lugging them around. If you’re watching wildlife from a boat or a safari truck, bulkier binoculars might not be such an issue. So binoculars with Porro lenses are a great way to go. Larger diameter lenses are also a great idea, since you can get a bigger field of view for a given magnification.
Since you’re already looking at a bigger field of view and the size of the binoculars don’t matter, higher magnifications aren’t a bad idea either. Binoculars with multiple levels of magnification might work well, too, provided that the quality of the lens is still high. This type of binocular has a sort of “zoom” function that allows you to change the magnification. While I’ve often had birdwatchers scoff at that sort of thing, it works great for spotting scopes and if you have a steady foundation or something to rest your binoculars on, it can be really helpful with a solid pair of binoculars.
Some final thoughts on how to choose binoculars
It’s always a good idea to try out a couple pairs of binoculars before buying them. If you haven’t already, check out my post on how to use binoculars to get to know how they work. Where possible, you may also want to try borrowing a friend’s binoculars to get a feel for them. Your binoculars will be a nature companion for years to come. That means it’s worth taking the time to shop around and be deliberate to see how different options suit your needs.
Thanks for reading!
Did you find this post helpful? Do you have any questions, or other suggestions for how to made find the best binoculars for your needs? Let us know in the comments! If you’d like to Support the Blog or would like more Gulo in Nature directly to your inbox, check out our Newsletter. Until next time, get to know your natural world!